Moshi
in the north of Tanzania has an abundance of off-the-beaten-track,
out-of-the-ordinary gems to add to the traveler's bucket list. Over decades the
surrounding areas of Moshi have always had a special place in my travels as I
have always returned for inspiration.
Beyond
the borders of Moshi town, the administrative town of Kilimanjaro region, I
recently joined tourism experts from Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB) for a tour of
epic proportions.
Old
Moshi's vast green landscapes that stretch over hills and down to the valleys, lying
below the sprawling rural areas, attracted me first-hand. The valleys and
streams cut deeply into the dramatic landscape.
Ten
km north of the current Moshi town, the old town was established by the Germans
in the early 1890s and has remained fairly unknown to many visitors. It was
overlooked by mistake for the wrong reasons. Naively, I suppose many travelers
were corrupted by the imagination of the adverb - Old.
Located
in Moshi rural, this area has nurtured a culture that goes back over 200 years.
Hacking back to colonial past, there are some of the incredible sights that
help to reawaken visitors' senses of adventure.
Our
host here was Old Moshi Cultural Tourism Enterprises and Gabriel Mzei, the
coordinator led us to discover small details of the great history of the
Germans and the famous local chief Meli, known locally as Mangi.
According
to TTB national coordinator, Mr Elirehema Maturo, Old Moshi Cultural Tourism
Enterprises is the latest addition to cultural enterprises scattered across the
country. These are meant to support local communities as they showcase their
culture, heritage and other natural attractions to visitors at a small fee.
The
tranquil setting of Old Moshi sprawling villages spans through ten villages namely
Tsuduni, Mdawi, Mowo, Tela, Msaranga, Mahoma, Sango, Kikarara, Mbokomu, and
Kidia, which is reason enough to visit. This ancient area has a captivating
history.
It
was a historic day on 2 March 1900 when Chief Meli who defied the occupation of
the German in the Chagga land was hanged on a tree in his early 30s. Chief
Meli, son to Chief Mandara, who embraced the entry of the Germans, resisted the
invasion of the Germans in his chiefdom leading to his arrest and death by
execution.
The
most iconic tree is found just opposite the former German court building (now a
ruin) as a testament to the Germans past administration in the then Tanganyika.
The tree is a welcoming landmark to visitors who arrive by road. It is often
the starting point for exploring the historic village's tour.
In
the heart of the Tsuduni village lie incredible ruins of a German military
base, a chapel and an old bell, believed to have been built in the 18th century
as well as a mass grave in which six Germans had been buried in the chapel's
courtyard.
There
is a slave market ruin nearby, which evokes emotional memories of the inhuman
slave trade. Lila, an Arab trader is said to be the person who brought warm
clothing such as blankets, bangles, shoes and mirrors in exchange for slaves.
The
market building, according to Gabriel, was used as the holding area before
slaves were transported away. Close to the market ruin, Gabriel pointed to a
tree that was used to end the life of the weak or unwilling slaves. This was done
in the full view of other captives so as to intimidate them.
Next,
we walked through banana and coffee farms to a 'sacred' tree known locally as
Msohu, where sacred rituals take place to worship and expect good fortune to
the people and land. Luckily, limited rituals take place these days and are
done secretly since most of the people in the area are Christian converts.
Discovering
the cultural village on foot is by far the most rewarding. Visitors are
introduced to different activities leading to explore and discover varied
attractions.
One
of the main activities here is hiking to a popular waterfall, Kwa Mambori, one
of the most picturesque. Its location adds to its charm.
The
waterfalls, is a sight unto itself as it falls more than 120 meters from
imposing cliff faces to form natural pools that are open to the public for
swimming. The falls are a popular spot for adventurous visitors in the area and
it is believed to be the highest around Mount Kilimanjaro.
Walk
proved to be even more captivating, as we cautiously followed the winding
footpaths carved out centuries ago by local inhabitants. Treading lightly along
narrow edges, we were treated to panorama after panorama of powerful and
utterly breathtaking vistas. Countless lookout points were interspersed with
rests along the way.
Jonas
Mowo, a guide, kept my safety keenly embedded in his day's business. The hike
starts from uphill and descends through valleys and water streams. The day
drifted by as we ascended and descended, gazing dreamily out onto the
surrounding landscape.
This
is the place to go if you want to explore the valleys, streams with water that
flow from Mount Kilimanjaro, exotic plants, and varied tree species with
incredible lush greenery landscape backdrop.
We
spent the last hour at the Mangi Meli Palace where Mzee Isaria Anael Meli, 85,
a grandson to Mangi Meli took us through the history of his grandfather. He
wants a monument to be erected to honor Mangi Meli in the area, and the return
of Chief Meli's head which was taken to a museum in German.
It
surely was a journey that brought incredible sights through great history and
lush green landscapes through cultural villages.
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